Spring is coming....

I have heard from many people here that the best sign of spring in Sweden is when the gravel is being removed from the sidewalks. You see, Sweden does not use salt or chemicals to prevent snow and ice from accumulating, but they lay down a fairly thick layer of gravel on all walkways to make the snow (as I understand it) stay a bit gritty after it falls and therefore still walkable. Apparently for them it remains more walkable WITHOUT clearing the sidewalks. (I’m also sure the whole environmental aspect is a factor because Europe in general is much more conscious and strict regarding environmental laws)

After spending this last week in Stockholm when the chill has almost left the air and the temperatures are consistently getting above 10C during the day (50 F), I personally would say that the best sign of spring is the people. I first saw the phenomenon on Wednesday when I decided to walk to a bar/restaurant on the water near my hotel. I walk out the door of my hotel, and at least two dozen people are sitting on the front patio of the hotel in lawn chairs all facing the sun. They looked like a small field of solar panels. I walked across the street and took the path that hugs the water of Riddarfjarden which is the easternmost bay of Lake Malaren of Stockholm. On the way I pass a park, and at about 7:30pm in about 60F weather, the park was also full. The lawn was spotted all over with people exercising or enjoying a picnic or some wine. I smiled as my memories of “Oval Beach” at Ohio State immediately came to mind. I see people walking their dogs and trying new tricks on their skateboards at the skate park under the bridge. What a lovely way to spend an evening.

I get to my destination, Malarpaviljongen... Seriously, that’s the name… and after a brief episode of “Leslie trying to figure out foreign things,” I got in line to get my food. It turned out to be a cafeteria style location where you grab a tray and your silverware, get in line to either grab prepared food or order something off a menu I couldn’t read, you pay, and then there are probably hundreds of seats and tables to choose from, all right on the water with a garden vibe. Really a neat spot.

I ate my dinner while watching the people and the sunset off the water, then worked my way over to the bar section of the establishment.. which was truly out on a dock ..and grabbed a seat. Watching the water ripples from the boats while feeling the slight sway of the dock as people came on and off was mesmerizing.

Friday I met a few of my coworkers in a “hip” area called Hornstull for dinner and drinks. The actual swedish folks wanted to leave work and meet around 3pm because they knew all outdoor locations would be packed. We ended up meeting around 530pm but not sitting down at the first bar until about 6 or 630pm. Even then we only got a table due to our dumb luck of standing next to a group right as they stood up. This bar was also ON the water, so I had a great time watching the sailboats go by and watching the sun dance on the water while pestering the Swedish with questions about their culture :-)

As we left that first place (not sure what it was called), we walked by another park that of course was filled with people. I was told that during the winter (even in Stockholm in the southern half of Sweden) the sun barely comes out for just 3-4 hours a day.. so the Swedes absolutely relish the sun, even when it isn’t that warm out.

We moved on to a tapas and wine bar kind of place for further drinks and dinner where our waiter looked like Adam Scott (Parks and Rec anyone?). I did not take a picture of his face, though, because when I decided I should TELL him he looked like Adam Scott, he seemed incredibly unimpressed… so….

and then we went to some other bar, and another, and probably one more after that if I’m honest, but the whole time, the outdoor areas were absolutely packed.

Saturday started with a lazy morning, but as soon as I stepped outside the sunshine was an addictive adrenaline boost. It was warm and beautiful out, and if I thought the park across the street had been Oval Beach-like the other night, I had another thing coming on Saturday. I could barely see the grass with how many people were out. There were two volleyball games going on, a few dozen workout bros getting their muscle beach on, girls tanning, more dogs being walked and picnics being had. I literally saw someone that had brought their camping grill to make hotdogs. I practically laughed out loud at the sight.

I made the long and beautiful trek (about 5 km or just over 3 miles) to a park/museum called the Skansen. It is an outdoor museum up on a hill filled with buildings that have been either physically relocated from areas all over Sweden or constructed as replicas of such. The museum is meant to show what life in Sweden looked like in “olden days,” which varies on dates depending on the building. They have old farmhouses (farm animals included) and windmills and glass blowers and pottery makers and so forth. There is also a mini zoo filled with Nordic animals such as moose, a wolf, a lynx, brown bears, seals, etc. I saw a sign for an aquarium too, but I didn’t have time to check it out. The whole park was about 5 times as big as I expected it to be, so I wandered for about 2 hours and didn’t even see half of it. It is simple and yet so engaging. Most of it was obviously geared towards families, but I still had a great time watching seals be awkward, browsing the handmade ceramic coffee mugs, and enjoying the weather.

On my way out of Skansen, I was SO HUNGRY, and I saw a cute restaurant called Wärdshuset Ulla Winbladh (say that 5 times fast) off to the side, right at the bottom of the hill. It was only about 5pm, but I decided to go for an early dinner as I had not had lunch. It was one of the situations where most of their tables were clearly empty, but when you ask for one of those tables the host gets a mildly panicked look because “they are all booked up for the night.” Luckily, this guy was actually logical and resourceful and essentially told me, “I can seat you if you finish eating by 545pm.” Deal. So I sat and had a WONDERFUL dinner with my first swedish meatballs! They put the traditional potato puree, lingonberries, and pickled cucumbers (not pickles) on the side and it was exceptional.

I also had a glass of champagne to show that I was grateful for them letting me sit down and also to say that they should always do that because people can have a full meal and still be done on time etc. (Some Europeans have a hard time with that concept… it’s odd)

I started heading back in the direction of my hotel, stopped and talked to mom for a bit while sitting on a bench by the water, and then made a stop at the Royal Palace where it was “Cultural Night!” A coworker had told me about it, and I didn’t know quite what to expect, but I happened to walk into the Royal chapel (which I hadn’t gotten to see previously anyway) right before a [free] violin concert was starting! Perfect timing. I sat in a pew, directed by a man in traditional garb..

And for 30 minutes visitors came and went, a quirky man played gorgeous music on his violin in this stunning chapel while the sun was setting through the window... I most definitely had a perfect moment.

After the violinist was done, I left the chapel before the next musician started to see what else was going on at the Palace. I wandered into a central courtyard I had not been able to get to previously,

and then wandered over to the Storkyrkan which is the “Great Church of Stockholm.” Another beautiful cathedral, with some event or storytelling or presentation type thing happening at the front (it was all in Swedish so I couldn’t really tell), but the place was full of people both sitting and wandering. I of course chose to wander.

The internet told me that the “oldest known image of Stockholm” was in this church, and I wanted to find it! I essentially read anything in English to see what I could learn. I was about halfway through reading one description when I hear someone start talking to me. I turn around and see a guy that was kind of (at first) in the half turned, leaning in, “I don’t want to bother you but I have a question,” pose. So I turn my attention to him and think, “Ok, let’s see if I can answer his question.”

He starts talking about the church and how he came here to feel something…

(hm… not hearing a question here…)

... and how even if you don’t believe, you can’t NOT believe…

(Hm… still no question…Is he really just that talkative of a person??.. wait...is this a trick??)

.... And how we as people used to come to church to escape reality, but now we have Netflix….

(Crap, is he going to try to save me??)

... and then asked if I came for religion or as a tourist..

..”I came for the history…”

Oh but he did not come for the history.. Blah blah blah blah..

(Is he hitting on me? I don’t get it…)

Blah blah blah

(seriously… is he going to try to steal my wallet??)

Blah blah blah

(No, this will definitely lead to him trying to save me)

Blah blah blah

(ok really...I’m over this)

And I interrupted, said I was going to keep exploring and walked away. As I took a few steps I think I heard him say he was just waiting to go the bathroom. SERIOUSLY???! He interrupted my reading and learning to keep himself from being bored waiting in line for the bathroom for 2 minutes. Goodness gracious.

I explored the rest of the church and decided to make my way to the hotel for a skype date with Matt. The sun was almost down and the temperature was going with it, but it was still a gorgeous time to spend outside. I think I found my favorite view in Stockholm to date as well.

And then saw these denim hotties..

So, all in all… a really beautiful walk home.

Sunday I actually had to leave early and catch a flight back to Milan (ridiculous) so I will continue that in another post maybe tomorrow (since I’m a little behind).

See you soon!